Excellent scenery instructions and videos, "Realistic Scenery Volume 2," featuring Magic Water™, available from Paul Scoles at www.paulscoles.com
After 20 plus years, ;Richard Kamm's Sue Line Railroad finally got water poured..and Magic Water was one of the 3 products tested.
I thought it did great.; We hope to have pictures up on the web site soon.
It was easy to use and gave great results. I look forward to working with it more in the future.
Thanks for a great product.
Got it yesterday. Thanks again Dave. By the way, this stuff is the best water material I've ever seen. I love how THICK you can pour it without any trouble. I did a 3/4" thick pour last month and it worked beautifully. It takes a couple days to set up but is still so much faster than Envirotex's multiple layer nonsense, which never even cures half the time I use it...
Please take a look at our project. It could not have been possible without Magic Water and especially your help over the phone on how to best apply and modify your product. http://ww2.d155.org/pr/Articles/20132014/2014LockAndDamModel.aspx
CAD & Engineering Instructor
Industry and Careers Assistant Division Leader
Prairie Ridge High School
Thanks for the fast response Dave. I look forward to working with your product, and I must tell you that I am floored by your awesome customer service.
Hi Paul! Thanks for writing. Where the water areas come to the edge I recommend using smooth plastic to dam the edge and hold the water. Any rigid plastic will do, hobby stores have it from Plastruct and Evergreen, but you might find some scrap from some packaging etc. to use. This will give you a nice straight edge. Cut the plastic tall enough to contain the water and run a bead of clear silicone caulk along the facing edge of the base and affix the strip of plastic with masking tape. You should now be watertight and can pour the Magic Water. After it has set the plastic can be peeled off easily. If you find that the edge isn't as clear as you would like you can do a brush on of Magic Water to improve the clarity when viewing from the side. Hope this helps, call me if you need to, Im just across the state from you.
Dave Williams 269-468-7434
Subject: Magic water advice
Howdy, I plan to use Magic water for a diorama. I am looking to do something a bit different though. My water feature will be in the corner of the diorama. I would like to have the water visible through the side edge of the diorama. So, basically I need to build a frame, and then remove the frame once the water dries.
My frame will be made of wood. I can coat the wood with something that Magic water wont stick to, Or maybe I can "line" the wood with something to prevent the Magic water from bonding with the wood frame. I was thinking maybe wax paper or aluminum foil or something like that.
As a last resort, I can use a band saw to cut away the part of the Magic water that has stuck to the wood frame.
Your suggestions/ideas for things that the M/W will not stick to, are greatly appreciated.
Wanted to share a little more Magic Water with you from a new angle/perspective that I am working on. These are composites of 3 different images. The camera is about 3 inches from the seats for the coach mockup shots, which is the top layer in the composition. I do the transparency (i.e. windows) for under lying layers/images with blue/green screen techniques.
Our water work gets a lot of comments, Dude.
I finished a new miniature model several days ago and was able to test Magic Water. It was very successful. I followed directions carefully and stirred for a good 20 minutes and then poured. It started setting up about 10 hours later – just at bedtime, so I was unable to try any of the effects to show moving water. By the time I got up the next morning, it had “hardened” and looked GREAT. I was pleased.
Here are some photos: http://www.genegillminiatures.com/photos/regensburg.html
The next day I mixed a new batch and added color to test how it might cover up some of my previous miniature models where the water had turned yellow. Fantastic success! Even a very thin covering works well – which is good to know, because I don’t have more space on quite a few of them. It’s much better when I can add at least an 1/8 of an inch.
Now that I have tried it, the main part I need to learn to work with will be “effects”. Since I know how long before it begins setting up, I know about the time when to pour it – so I’ll still be up/awake when it’s time to begin the work.
Overall, I’m very happy with the results and I think your product is excellent. If I’m still living in about 4 more years, I hope to be able to write you another letter saying “... and it didn’t turn yellow”.
I will be ordering more in the near future.
Thanks and best regards,
Gene Gill Miniatures
See Genes work at www.genegillminiatures.com
Hi Dave, Hope this email finds you well and business good. Just made a small diorama (12 x 16) using your magic water for the frozen pond. It came out just beautiful. I am very happy with the results. Never had a bad pour. I mix the solution for no less than 10 minutes and that seems to be the ticket to a flawless finish. Here are a few photos if you care to add them to your gallery. By the way thank you for the quick service on the last order of magic water. Best regards, Frank Buono
Thanks Dave. Sending this to my sister in law. I bought a bunch a couple of years ago for my model train layout and people were amazed. Some thought it was actual water until I told them to touch it.....
I am really grateful for your product.
Have a wonderful day.
Brente R. Blosser
I just wanted to send you a note to let you know I was finally able to find some time to use your magic water & I LOVE IT! It is so easy to use & came out crystal clear - just beautiful! So far, I've only used it to fill in a resin swimming pool & a fountain, but am sure I will come up with some new ideas because it is so much fun to work with (which means I'll likely end up ordering more!) I started making dioramas this spring & keep finding new products & goodies to work with because it is so much fun & your product is among the best I've found. I started out making Christmas villages years ago but was always disappointed they were only out for a month each year - this way I can keep them out for 6 months or more in a nice dry, shady area of our yard since we are so fortunate to have great California weather!
Anyway - thanks for making such a great product & including such wonderful directions.
Here is a link to a great blog about making a diorama from Scenery Workshop in Holland. It's in Dutch so you may want to have it translated by your computer.