Magic Water™ Updates

MIXING IMPORTANT!! Mix 1 part A to 2 parts B. Do not alter the mix! Use disposable cups. You must mix it thoroughly!! Mix well at least 5 minutes then mix it again for 5 minutes!!! Just because it looks clear doesn’t mean its mixed thoroughly. Don’t worry about the bubbles, they will disappear after pouring etc. Mix Mix and Mix again!! Clean up spills with nail polish remover. Wash hands with soap and water. One more time, MIX , MIX, , AND MIX!!    If you see white particles in the "B" bottle immerse it in boiling water to return it to normal.

 

CURING TIME & TEMPERATURE Magic Water™ will set in approximately 24 hours at 70 degrees. It will take longer at lower temperatures. The lower the temperature the longer it will take. You may hasten the curing with a hair dryer, but you risk the chance of blowing debris into the resin and I don’t recommend it. Just be sure to mix well & let it set on its own. Magic Water™ will set to a hard rubber state, (won't crack) and can be carved or drilled. In any case temperature has no adverse effect on the product either before or after it has set. It will withstand natural cold and heat and lasts for years even after it has been opened, it has unlimited shelf life.

 

BUBBLES Magic Water™ will not bubble or draw air from objects placed in it in most cases when poured right after having mixed it, when it is very thin. Allow the Magic Water™ to sit for 5 or 10 minutes. The majority of bubbles from the mixing will rise to the top and pop. The remainder can then be eliminated by breathing or gently blowing over the surface of your project. The carbon dioxide in your breath removes them. If you have a tough one pop it with a toothpick. For deep pours, pour no more than 1/2” at a time, debubble with your breath, let cure, then continue with another pour. Propane torches are not recommended or necessary for debubbling as you may incinerate your scenery and bridges as I have seen many times with other epoxies.

 

USE ON FOAM Magic Water™ will not melt foam or plastic and is compatible with the pink and blue types of housing insulation commonly used on layouts. These are a closed cell foam. Open cell foams, the white ones, will absorb the Magic Water™ and should be sealed before pouring.

 

LEAKS AND VISCOSITY Magic Water™ is very thin when first mixed. You do not have to push it around your project. It will seek every nook & cranny when poured from just one spot. It will also find even a pinhole leak. In any case floors and surfaces under your project should be protected, as with some plastic, especially carpet and table tops. If you think you might have a leak prior to pouring, 1. you can do a water test. 2. Mix up enough Magic Water to seal the project basin by brushing on a thin coat, letting that set and you should now be sealed. 3. Caulk the suspected areas with clear silicone, or seal with Durhams Water Putty, wallboard compound, or similar product. If you find that after you have poured the product you have a leak, try to stop it with the silicone caulk or 5 minute epoxy covered by some duct tape. This should slow it down enough that you don’t lose a lot. BASICALLY: Whatever will hold water, will hold Magic Water™.

 

TABLE EDGE SEALING If you have a river or harbor like project that runs to the edge of your table and you need to dam it for the Magic Water™, here's what I do. Cut a strip of smooth styrene plastic, (Evergreen, Plastruct), tall enough to dam up the edge for the Magic Water™. Apply a bead of clear silicone caulk to the table edge face, and stick the plastic strip to that and affix with masking tape. This gives you a nice straight edge. After your project has set you can remove the plastic.

 

WICKING AND CAPILLARY EFFECT I suggest that you do your water area project first, before doing surrounding scenery. If Magic Water™ comes in contact with porous surfaces such as ballasts, ground cover, gravels etc., it will “Wick” or capillary into those things, making them look wet above the waterline. This is a natural effect of liquids and you may have to redo some of the shoreline scenery to cover the wet look. Sculptamold has come to light as one of these surfaces that the product will wick into. If you have already done the shoreline, here is what may help. Mix a small amount of Magic Water™, and brush the product on where you envision your waterline to be. Let that set. In this way you have created a barrier to protect the shoreline from getting the wet look of the wicking that would have occurred with a full lake of product. In any case Magic Water has a very insignificant “miniscus” or creeping effect. It doesn’t climb up bridge, pier or dock pilings, and will usually leave a nice sharp edge to its surroundings.

 

TINTING & COLORING Magic Water™ may be tinted and colored with solvent based products, such as, Testors, Modelmaster, Floquil, or other oil based enamels. Indelible ink also works. Water based coloring doesn’t dilute as well. Please do a small test aside from your project before you pour the whole thing so you are happy with the color. Add colors slowly, it doesn’t take much to color Magic Water.

 

MAKING ICE Add white paint to the Magic Water™ in the cup before you pour. Mix it in until it looks like watered down milk. Paint the pond bottom a dark green or suitable color. It should look very natural when its done. Don’t forget the details, dead trees etc. first.

 

BOATS I suggest that boats and ships be glued down after the resin has set. They will tend to sink if put in before and wont look natural. Sand the boat bottom flat and stick it on with white glue.

 

COVERAGE One 18oz box of Magic Water™ will cover a little over 2 square feet 1/8” deep.  The 96oz size will do 11 sq ft 1/8" deep. You may brush it on, or pour it deep.  If doing a deep pour do it in 1/2" layers at a time, allowing the layers to cure in between.

 

WATERFALLS I find clear silicone kitchen and bath caulk to be the easiest way to do falling water. Smear the caulk out laterally, back and forth on a piece of wax paper to your desired thickness and size. Sort of like making a little shower curtain. It should look like falling water right away. Let it set then cut it into strips the way you want and glue on over your rocks etc. at the top and bottom with the bumpy side exposed. Highlight the strips (drybrush) with white enamel to simulate foamy water. Finally pour a gloss over the falls of Magic Water™ and complete the project. Great way to do whitewater is to mix some white paint with a small cup of the silicone and dab it on the Magic Water™ after it has set.  Another neat trick is to impregnate the silicone with polyfiber when doing the falls.

 

RIPPLES AND WAVES The product may be teased with a popsicle stick or similar object to achieve effects as it is setting. You have to wait until it is thick enough to do so usually around 12 hours plus. Mod Podge, clear silicone, Water Effects, gloss medium gels, etc. may also be used after the resin has set to create water effects.  Great trick is to apply polyfiber around rocks etc. in a rapids area and matt down with Gloss Gel.

 
CLEANING & DUSTING Clean with anti static plastic cleaner, found at hardware stores.  Don’t use glass cleaners.
 
CRYSTALLIZATION IN THE "B" BOTTLE  White particles may appear in the "B" bottle at times, usually from cold.  Immerse the bottle in boiling water and it will return to normal. This does not affect the performance of the product, but is a natural occurence in Epoxy resins.
 
That's all the latest I think. Don’t hesitate to contact me by phone or e-mail if you need help. I assure you that you will be successful! Thanks again for using Magic Water™, and as always: Have Fun!    

 

Sincerely,

mw-Dave2

269-468-7434
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