Testimonials

Excellent scenery instructions and videos, "Realistic Scenery Volume 2," featuring Magic Water™,  available from Paul Scoles at www.paulscoles.com

I'LL NEVER GO BACK

Dave –

Thanks a million for the quick response.  I’ll forge forward!

And they’re not just kind words, they’re true.  I had a lot of “water” on my former Bona Vista layout.   In Year One I poured a 4-foot river using Enviro-Tex Lite.  No tinting or anything – I wanted pristine, “cleaner than clean” water on my layout.  I also poured a test of the Enviro-Tex into a small Dixie cup.

By Year Five that river was the color of diluted root beer – anything but what I wanted.  Friends blamed the fluorescent lights until I showed them the Dixie cup, which had been stored away inside of a rarely opened cupboard.  It was also “diluted root beer.” 

Naturally, in the intervening 5 years I’d also used Enviro-Tex to pour a square-foot-sized lake, and another small stream.  Those started going brown, too.

That’s when I switched to Magic Water and used that to pour two more rivers, plus a Dixie cup test.  When I demolished the layout during Year Twelve, all the Enviro-Tex water was “diluted root beer,” whereas the two Magic Water streams were as pristine as the day I poured them.  I still have both Dixie cups – one contains diluted root beer, the other contains crystal clear water.

I’ll never go back!

Thanks again,

  -Gerry

vv

It Actually Looks "Unreal"

Hi Dave, I finished the creek and it turned out OK.  It sits  behind a coal facility kit by Laser Modeling 3.

I really like the Magic Water, no mixing problems, no smell, and when it hardens it actually looks "unreal".

You can use my name as a recommendation along with any of the photos.

Enjoy the photos.

Dave Clem

Great product!

Hi Dave,
 
As you suggested, I did a clear pour, then followed that up with a faint blue pour so you could just barley see the bottom.  
 
By the way, I used artist's oil paint, and found it difficult to dissolve, but I made it work.
 
Thanks for a great product.  
 
Steve Harris  
Here's a photo of how it turned out.  
On Mar 30, 2015, at 7:40 PM, This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. wrote:

Hi Steve.  I would paint the bottom the natural color it is,  darker where its deep and  feather to a lighter color at the shore.  Definitely add rock etc. and glue down before pouring the Magic Water.  You can also tint the product itself if you like, but I wouldn't do it too much.  This river looks like a clean one so maybe you might want to add just a smidgen of blue to the resin.  Use oil based paint or ink.  Ive done this before with good results.  You want to do it so faintly that you almost have to look for the blue.  If you do just a clear pour I think you will be pleased also.  You might want to do a clear pour first and then if you think you want more color you can do it as another layer.
Hope this helps.  Let me know how it turns out and send some pics if you can.  In any case mix it well & have fun!  Look through the photo gallery on my site, maybe some ideas.
Dave 
 
 
 

Great Product

Hi Dave, You and I had a conversation many months ago regarding Magic Water. I purchased the product then and was quite happy with it, in fact, my comments on are your testimonials page. Well, I just finished another project and I used your product again. This particular diorama shows a lot of water. Again, I can't tell you how pleased I am with this product. It is everything you say it is and is quite easy to work with. I tinted the water using a Vallejo brown acrylic and am overjoyed with the results. I added a layer of floating oil/scum after Magic Water was completely set up, using weathering washes, and got a very convincing "layered" look. By the way - I have sold quite a bit of your product as I have told my modeling friends about this product. In fact, I have a guy coming over tomorrow to look at this Sherman dio as he wants to know how to do water. Thanks again for a great product! -- Bruce McKinney

EASY TO USE

Hi Dave,

Thanks foryour quick reply - much appreciated.

I will do the second pour, and when I have completed the area, send you photos. For some time,I felt that simulating a water scene on my layout was a feature I could never achieve. Your product changed all that. So thanks again for helping to add to my skill set in this wonderful hobby of model railroading.

Cheers...... John


Yes John. Make sure you really mix the 2 thoroughly, that's why its setting unevenly, but its a good time to pour again. Send phots. Happy new year!

Dave


Hi Dave,

Happy New Year to you and yours.

I have just completed my first pour of Magic Water, and must say how pleased I am with your product. It is so easy to use and produces very realistic results.

I have one question. The first coat was applied approximately 48 hours ago and many areas are completely cured and not sticky. Can I pour a second coat even if the first coat in some of the deeper areas is still slightly 'sticky' on the top surface?

Thanks for any assistance you can provide.

John Colliver, AUSTRALIA

Layering Tips

This is in response to a question a lady asked you about using a fish bowl full of Magic Water. I just think about things that are sunken beneath the water that can't be seen from the surface. I have found a few ways of solving problems with layers in pouring Magic Water 1/2 inch at a time and keeping those fine layer problems from being noticeable in a significant depth of Magic Water.

You can use plant life like sea weed or any water plant that looks like it's drifting in the water's current in a diagonal or even a horizontal fashion, or use small schooling fish, or even half submerged debris like a half filled closed can with a little air still inside that makes it drift just below the surface, or saturated material that floats between the bottom of the pond and the water surface.

An old half rotten boat fender that has semi sunk will also work to break up the eye's view as one looks at the water through the glass; I've also seen sunken row boats that look great with some of the boat above water, but most under water. I think it also adds interest to the scene. One could also use something like a sign that has sunk and lays drifting in the water weighted down by an old sign post or even weighted with a pail of cement that has washed out of its original place on shore and you could read the sign underwater, or old fishing nets that have often been lost to the water and drift or catch up on some submerged debris, or rock, or tree stump.

I hope some of my ideas will be of benefit to those with these very little problems. I tend to think like a child so I hope this is sensible to those who do not. I love Magic Water and hope my suggestions will be taken in the thoughtful way I've presented them. I appreciated many of your imaginative suggestions on you internet site and on the enclosed pamphlet in the product's box. I particularly like the way to make ice out of Magic Water. Thanks for giving us such a great product.

Sincerely, Jean Stell

Spring, Texas

EVERYTHING YOU PROMISED

Hi Dave, I promised you I would get back to you after I completed my diorama using Magic Water. Well, here I am. You cannot see much of the water in these photo's - but I used two complete "mini" sets. This product is everything you promised!! I treated the sides of theriver bank and cattails and bridge support with diluted flat medium (basicallywhite glue that dries flat from Scenic Express). I got ZERO wicking and the depth of the water looks great. My first layer I actually added acrylic paint to the mixture and got a really nice mud flow effect as the acrylic would not mix with Magic Water (you know this already). I purposely experimented with this knowing the two products would not mix.I added another couple of layers and got some great depth. Most of the water is under the bridge -looks really good. I already toldone of my modeling friends about Magic Water as he does ships. He ordered a kit and reported that he really likes the results. So, I will tell my other modeling buddies in my club (Oregon Historical Modelers Society) to use your product. Like I said, in these photo's you can't see much water.....but you can use these on your website or anywhere else if you find it's something you can use. Thanks again for a great product and XLNT customer service!

Bruce


Hi Bruce. Got your message.

All liquids will wick. Its just the natural capillary effect of liquids and depends on the porousness of the surfaces.

Firstly I advise doing the water areas first before applying ground covers at the shoreline as it will wick into those, grasses, gravels etc.

Pier and dock pilings or any other things that you might be concerned with can be coated at the waterline with a thinned brush on of Elmers glue to prevent wicking. If the objects aren't porous at all Magic Water will usually leave you with a very nice waterline with little miniscus. It is a very thin product when first poured.

Its like it will wick lots into balsa wood but not a hard wood, metal or plastic.

Hope this helps, if not let me know. You will love the results I assure you, it is truly museum quality, and easy!

Thanks for the interest!

Dave

Envirotex vs Magic Water

I have used both Envirotex Lite and Magic Water.I find Envirotex yellows over time but Magic Water does not.

>When I created in 2010 a scene "Harmony" my lake measured 8"x12" x 2"deep (This photo is on my website) I initially started out with Envirotex. I followed the instruction on the bottle because only a small section can be poured at a time, that cured after 24 hours wait however after pouring the second layer and after waiting another 24 hours and more that layer did not cure. I had to use acetone to take all layers out ....what a job. I was pretty discouraged as my project was a week behind already.

>In a nutshell I tested four different brands in a sample tester that I created for this purpose and after much research I came across Magic Water. I found them to be the best. The owner Dave is a model railroader, his mother was a miniature collector, he has made up his own formula and I swear it is amazing, there is no smell and if you follow the instructions you will be guaranteed what you are looking for. His website www.unrealdetails.com

>Judy L, Coquitlam, Canada

www.lauson.ca

Hi All,
I need your opinion on resin water brands. I've been planning a fishing scene in a large glass fishbowl, for about 20 years now. I have everything I need for it, but I can't decide on which brand of resin water to use. Another reason I haven't started it is..... I'm scared to start it. If I mess any step up, the whole thing will be ruined. The water in the fish bowl will be about 5 inches thick, and I will be pouring the resin in layers, because I will be adding fish and other things as various levels. It's based on the Norman Rockwell painting Gone Fishing.
I was planning on using Envirotex Lite, I've used this many times before with success. I know it yellows over time, but I don't think this will matter since it's a lake, and I'm going to color the water a bit anyways.
I've also recently heard of Magic Water but have never used it.
So....if you have used BOTH of these brands before, Envirotex Lite and Magic Water, I need your opinion on them, pros and cons.
Thanks so much! Connie Sauve

Museum Quality

Hi Dave:

You could add my name to the testimonials.

I had used another product resin in my lake project which did not cure, after removing the old resin and researching the market ,I found Magic Water which solved the problem.This is a fantastic product which does not yellow over age .It definitely is museum quality and one will not be disappoint from its results.

Judy L, Coquitlam Canada

www.lauson.ca